Tools required :-  Side cutters (snips), a medium posi and flat screwdriver depending on the plug top, a Stanley knife and if you have them a pair of wire strippers.

Remove approximately 5cm of outer sheath from the flex, to do this score around the flex with your knife taking care not to cut into the conductors inside, just bend the flex at the score mark once or twice and it should pull off (fig1).

fig 1

Prepare the plug top by unscrewing the top and loosening the cable grip inside. Now place the flex where the cable grip will hold it in place and mark the live conductor (Brown) for cutting, cut and strip sufficient insulation from the conductor to provide enough copper for the terminal screw to screw down on securely.

If you are connecting a small flex, say for a portable stereo, then it is good practice to strip twice the length of insulation you need and double back the copper conductor on itself, to give a better connection (more copper will help the terminal screw to achieve a tighter connection on the conductor). 

Once the live conductor (Brown) is terminated I normally fit the cable grip around the flex to hold it in place ( fig 2 ), this is down to personal preference, you can of course fit it last if you prefer. Now measure the neutral conductor (Blue) to length, strip and connect (fig 3), and finally measure the earth conductor (Green / Yellow) to length and again strip and connect (fig 4).

Now fit the appropriate fuse to suit the appliance (see fuse ratings in plug tops post) and put the top back on securely (fig 5).

fig 2

fig 3

fig 4

fig 5

Remove all the doors, drawers and shelves first, then remove any screws that are fixing the worktop(s) to the base units. If the worktop edges are under tiles you may have to remove some, if not all of them to ‘free up’ the worktop. Some old kitchens have the worktop glued to the base units so the only removal solution may be a lump hammer and crowbar.

The units themselves should be relatively easy to remove and come apart fairly easily, especially with ones trusty lump hammer, but watch out for hidden cables and pipes, an indoor pool is not always appreciated. Once the water is turned off, the pipes cut and the sink unit removed, it is a good idea to fit in-line / gate valves to the remaining pipes, at least this enables the water to be turned back on, and fitting new pipework should hopefully not have to interrupt the water supply. Try and get some assistance when removing the wall units as they may be heavy or simply awkward to handle by yourself.

If you are disconnecting any electrical supplies, switch off the consumer unit and remove the fuse / miniature circuit breaker as well, this reduces the chance of the circuit becoming ‘live’ if the consumer unit is switched back on by accident, double check the supply is ‘dead’ at the point of disconnection, if in doubt use the services of a qualified electrician as electric shocks can be fatal. Don’t attempt to disconnect any gas supplies, the law says this can only be carried out by a Gas Safe registered  plumber / engineer.

So now the kitchen area is cleared, any repairs to existing walls and floors can be carried out. Holes in walls for air extraction and waste pipes can drilled / knocked through, electrics and plumbing can be installed to suit your new kitchen, don’t forget electrical supplies for wall unit lighting and the extract fan if they aren’t already in position, usually when an oven and separate hob is installed the oven comes fitted with a 13amp plug top and may require the installation of an extra socket outlet, the electric hob is then connected to the cooker switch, as this can have a much higher current demand.

(Back to main page :- Fitting a kitchen)