To achieve a good wall surface on which to hang the lining paper, fill all knock marks, holes and cracks using a filler knife and flexible filler, remove any loose plaster and re-plaster if necessary (see wall plaster repair post). Go back over areas you have filled several times as I was amazed how much I had missed on the first pass. Let the filler/plaster dry hard, then sand the wall down, concentrating on a small area at a time, sand the filler level and remove any loose flecks of old paint and bits of wallpaper, this does take time to do but it is well worth the effort. I used an electric sander and sanding block to do this but you could always use a small block of timber wrapped with sandpaper to enable you to sand down using a flat surface and not your hand. Don’t forget to use dustsheets to cover furniture and floor coverings, and I would also recommend using safety goggles and a face mask to avoid breathing in any small particles of dust.

Safety tip :- Keep children and pets clear of the walls/room being sanded down to avoid them breathing in any dust present in the air. Ventilate the room by opening windows, if possible close the doors to adjacent rooms to avoid the dust spreading throughout your home.

If you have used a lot of filler or plaster to patch up the wall it is worthwhile sizing the wall prior to hanging the lining paper, size is basically diluted wallpaper paste (the dilution ratio can usually be found on the packet), this is applied to the wall to stop the filler or plaster from removing too much water from the pasted piece of lining paper too quickly and therefore reducing its adhesive properties. Sizing a wall also allows you to slide the paper more easily into position when you start papering the wall.

Should you decide to hang the lining paper horizontally across the wall, mark a level line, preferably with a chalk line and spirit level, see fig 1 below. If your lining paper has a width of 24 inches (600mm) mark the line approximately 20 inches (500mm) below the ceiling, this should easily take into account any discrepancies in the existing ceiling level. Measure the width of the wall and add 6 inches (150mm) to the length for trimming in the corners. You will need two pairs of steps and a walk board or planks supported where necessary in order to reach the work area, the lining paper is pasted and folded in the same way as normal wallpaper (see hanging wallpaper post) the only difference being you are hanging the lining paper horizontally rather than vertically.   

Safety tip :-  Great care must be taken when working at height, especially as you will no doubt be concentrating on hanging the paper correctly rather than looking where you are placing your feet as you move along the walk board or planks. An assistant is invaluable, if only to watch your step for you and pass any decorating tools you may need.

  

fig 1

As shown in fig 1 above, hang each piece of lining paper in position butting the joints together, try to ensure there are no overlaps as these will show through your wallpaper eventually and spoil the finished look. Cut the lining paper into the corners of the wall and trim as required along the ceiling and skirting board edges, once again don’t let the lining paper overlap anywhere if possible. Let the lining paper dry out for approximately 24 hours and then you can start to hang your wallpaper. Have a look for other tips and advice in the main decorating section on hanging wallpaper etc.

• Plastering trowel - Made from Stainless or Carbon steel

• Plastering corner trowel – Produces a better corner edge to edge finish

• Hawk - A hand held flat base from which plaster can be more easily applied

• Plaster mixing tub or bucket

• Plastering float – A lightweight trowel to help create a good top coat finish

• Plasterboard and drywall scarifier – Used to scratch the surface of plasterboard / drywall prior to plaster being applied

• Paint brush – For wetting down dry surfaces usually by flicking the water from the brush rather than direct contact

• Pad saw – For cutting holes in, or trimming plasterboard / drywall

• Straight edge – To check the finished surface is flat

• Stanley knife – For cutting plasterboard / drywall to size

• Hacksaw – For cutting angle bead to length

• Spirit level – For checking the finished surface is level

• Hammer – For removing any unwanted lumps and bumps prior to the plaster being applied

• Dustsheet – To protect floors and furnishings

To achieve a good level concrete foundation excavate the soil and hardcore as level as possible to the required depth for your brick / block work. If you need a foundation depth of say 12″ (300mm), as an example, saw some 1″ x 1″ (25mm x 25mm) timber into approximately 24″ (600mm) long lengths, mark each one 12″ (25mm) from one end.

In the centre of your trench starting at what you think is the highest point (use your spirit level to obtain a rough guide), knock the first piece of timber into the ground to the 12″ (300mm) mark, knock the next timber in around 24″ (600mm) further along the trench, as the mark gets within a couple of inches (50mm) of the ground place your spirit level between the two timbers and continue knocking the timber into the ground until you get a level reading between the two timbers.

Continue with this method the whole length of the trench until all the ends of the timbers are as near to level as possible. The top ends of the timbers are now a  level guide for your concrete when you fill the trench, because you started your timbers at the highest point in the trench it will ensure a minimum depth of foundation of 12″ (300mm).

Below are some diagrams to give you a guide along with the above instructions.

Bricklaying usually requires a bit of practice in order to ‘gain the knack’ (Most DIYers, myself included usually ‘ jump in with both feet’ and start the project straight away), if you have never laid bricks before it is good practice to build a sample wall first, e.g.  a four brick course, three bricks high, the bricks can always be cleaned and re-used later. When you are happy with your ‘practice’ wall finish, you can start your DIY project with more confidence and know how.

Have a ready supply of bricks near the work area, mix the mortar (see post), using four parts sand to one of cement (4 : 1), add a plasticiser to the mix, this makes the mortar easier to trowel and it adheres better to the bricks. Don’t make the mortar too ‘wet’ as the weight of the bricks will push it out of the seam when you start bricklaying and only mix sufficient for say one hours bricklaying (even less if the weather is hot), as it will dry out before you can use it. Don’t add water to a mortar mix if it becomes too dry / stiff to use, throw it away and mix again. Place the mortar as near to the work area as possible.

Safety tip :- Use gloves when mixing / using cement as it can irritate and burn skin, use gloves / safety goggles when handling / cutting bricks.

Always lay bricks so the vertical joints are staggered, this gives the brickwork added strength and support. If the bricks you are using don’t have holes through them but have an indentation (known as a frog), lay the bricks with the ‘frog’ at the top. The last course of bricks can be laid with the ‘frog’ at the bottom to give the brickwork a smooth finish on the top.

Lay one brick at each end of the course with a string line stretched between them along the top edge, this will give you a guide as you lay each course of bricks. See fig 1.

fig 1

When you place the mortar on the foundation or next course of bricks make a V shaped trough along the mortar with your trowel, this allows the bricks to be tapped into position / level more easily, spread (butter) mortar onto the end of each brick as you lay them for the vertical joint. Once you have laid the first course of bricks check the level along the top of the course and along the face or outside edge (it isn’t necessary to check each brick as you lay them). With your spirit level in position on the brickwork, tap each brick level, either using the edge of your trowel or by hand. Remember most bricks aren’t always square when manufactured so they may not line up perfectly level with each other, use your judgement as minor discrepancies won’t be noticeable when you ‘step back’ and look at the finished brickwork.

You will no doubt have to cut some bricks to size (e.g. half bricks to obtain the staggered vertical joints), to do this mark the cut on the brick (allowing for the mortar seam) and place it on firm ground or a solid base, align the cutting edge of your bolster chisel with the mark and give it a sharp blow with your lump hammer, any rough edges can be chipped off  using the bolster and lump hammer. Don’t forget the safety goggles.

Lay each course of bricks using the string line as a guide and check the levels as each course is completed. Don’t forget to strike / point the seams on each course before the mortar sets, fill any holes in the seams then strike / point them with either the piece of pipe or the trowel to give your brickwork a professional finish, brush the brickwork down with a soft hand brush to remove any excess mortar from the brickwork face.

Remember you can always add a colouring agent to the mortar mix if you think it would improve the finished look of your brickwork. Colouring agents are simple to add, just make sure you note the quantities of sand, cement and agent that go into each mix. Use the same sand for each mix as different ones can produce variations in the shade of colour. The agents come in various colours. (See post)

The strip of border on each wall should if possible be in one complete length to save you trying to match up the ends. Use a good quality border adhesive to make the task easier, lay the border face down on a wallpaper pasting table and apply the adhesive to the back of the border with a 2″ (50mm) paint brush and fold it back on itself in a concertina fashion (see post on pasting and hanging wallpaper), then following your level marks on the wall using a clean sponge or wallpaper brush, stick it in place. Trim any ends of the border where it meets up to woodwork and fireplaces etc, as you would with a strip of wallpaper. 

Remember to wipe away any surplus adhesive before it drys.

• Paintbrushes – 1/2″ (12mm) – 3″ (75mm). Cheap brushes are fine, but if your budget will allow it purchase a good quality set that will give a good finish and when cleaned properly last for years
• Paint roller and tray
• White spirit or brush cleaner
• Dustsheet
• Masking tape
• Sugar soap
• Sandpaper
• Stepladders
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Plumb line, (a weight attached to a thin piece of string or cord that will give you a vertical level)
• Spirit level
• Stanley knife
• Filler knife
• Wallpaper scraper
• Wallpaper steam stripper
• Wallpaper pasting table
• Wallpaper paste brush
• Two buckets or trays, one for paste, the other for an easily accesible supply of clean water
• Sponge
• Wallpaper brush, (to ‘push out’  trapped air bubbles from behind the wallpaper)
• Small medium – soft roller, (to press down on edges of wallpaper)
• 10″ (250mm) Wallpaper scissors
• 4″ – 5″ (100mm – 125mm) Scissors for the more intricate cuts, (around light switches etc) 

First of all you will have to decide on a suitable height for the dado rail, it doesn’t want to be either too high or too low, as an example, on a recent project the dado rail was fitted at a height of 37 1/2″ (950mm) to the top edge with a room ceiling height of 116 1/2″ (2450mm). When you have decided on a suitable height check the dado will look alright  from the aesthetics point of view, i.e. where it meets up to your fireplace, window ledges etc.

Mark the chosen height from the floor at approximately 3 ft (1000mm) intervals around the room and in each corner, now check these marks with a spirit level (you can always use a spirit level and a straight length of timber) and mark a pencil line around the room, hopefully the line will be as near as level, if the marks are only say 1/4″  (6mm) out this can be lost across the length of dado as long as it meets up with the next piece of dado at the corner. If the levels are out by a great margin then you can either mark a level line all the way round the room from a set starting point, eg the fireplace, or use a rotary laser level which can be purchased from your local DIY store or hired from the local tool hire shop.

At each corner you will have to cut an internal or external mitre, (see fig 1) this is best done using a mitre box as dado rail comes in assorted profiles that are virtually impossible to mark for a freehand cut. Its worth putting a small pencil mark on the piece of dado to be cut at the angle the mitre will be as it is very easy to cut a mitre internally instead of externally or visa versa by mistake, if the wall is longer than the lengths of dado available then cut one internal and one external mitre in each length at the joint, (see fig 2) this can be held together with small nails or panel pins with the head left below the surface and finished off with filler later. 

The cuts can be made with a fine bladed wood saw or as I prefer a hacksaw again with a fine blade (22 teeth per inch) which gives a nice clean cut, the cut edges should be lightly sanded and don’t worry if the mitre isn’t perfect, if the dado is being painted it can be filled with an appropriate filler later. 

fig 1

fig 2

To fix the dado to the wall you have two choices, either screw and plug it to the wall countersinking the holes so the screw head is below the surface so it can be filled and therefore hidden or use a good quality adhesive such as liquid nails, in which case the wall surface should be clean (no wallpaper). The adhesive is applied to the dado rail with a silicone gun and when it is placed in position knock some panel pins underneath the bottom edge so it doesn’t drop down and out of level. Fill any small gaps in your mitres and along the top edge of the dado rail with decorators caulk using a silicone gun to give a great finish thats ready to paint.

There are two common ways DIYers lay flags, the first is the spot method where five dollops of mortar are put on the ground and the flag is positioned level on top. This method, which is used a great deal usually leads to problems with the paving / patios after a few months. The flags are not fully supported and may be prone to breaks if any load is placed on them, also water underneath the flags can cause them to start to rock and become uneven.

Safety tip:- Laying flags / paving and screeding is very heavy work, you should take great care when lifting any heavy weight and if possible have assistance when doing so. Wear appropriate footwear and gloves to suit the task.

The screed method gives the flags a sturdy bed on which to lay them and I think it produces a much better finished job. The first thing you need to do is prepare the ground ready for the screed, you will need to ascertain if the flags or paving will require a ‘fall’  to allow rainwater to drain away without leaving puddles, once you have the ground levelled off correctly run a plate vibrator (whacker plate, see tool hire post) over it several times.

Now you need to set up two screed level boards, I would normally put down a screed of approx 50mm (2 inch) so use timbers of 100mm x 50mm, (4 x 2 inch) set  these level with each other using a piece of timber to span between them and a spirit level (1mtr level is ideal). Cut another piece of 100mm x 50mm (4 x 2 inch) timber long enough to span the screed boards, notch this out so its edge is around 45mm (1 3/4 inch) below the top edge of the screed boards as shown in the drawing below. This timber will be used to level off the screed mix.

The screed is made up of sand and cement, do not use building sand as it will wash away and weaken the screed mix, grit sand is ideal to use and can be purchased for delivery in one ton bags from the larger DIY stores such as B & Q, this may sound like a large amount but with a dry mix ratio of 1 part cement to 6 parts grit sand at a 50mm (2 inch) depth it will cover an area of approximately 10 to 12 sq mtrs. If you think the flags  / paving may have to stand heavier use, such as a vehicle, then do a dry mix ratio of 1 part cement to 3 parts grit sand. Grit sand does tend to be moist to the touch, this combined with moisture in the ground will set the cement which in turn binds the grit sand together and stops any movement.

So now your ready to screed and lay your flags / paving, fill between the screed boards with approximately 75mm (3inches) of screed mix, then slide your levelling piece of timber along the screed boards so you have an even layer, run over this layer with your plate vibrator once only, now top up the compacted screed with loose screed mix and slide the levelling timber over it again. If your flags / paving stones are heavy walk them (along the ground corner to corner) to the work area, make sure you have the flag / paving stone the right way round then place it down on the screed, do this from the crouched position rather than the standing position to reduce any risk of back injury, once it is in position knock it down level with a 24oz rubber mallet, (screwfix sell them for around £5) the loose screed should allow the flag / paving stone to sink around 5 to 8mm, (1/4 to 3/16 inch) continue with each flag / paving stone leaving space between each one of approximately 6 to 8mm, (1/4 to 3/16 inch) use pieces of hardboard or anything that has a similar thickness to create uniform space around each flag / paving stone. Check your flag / paving stone level as you go, adding or removing a little screed mix with a trowel as required. When all your flags / paving stones are in position, spaces in between can be filled carefully using mortar mixed with a waterproofer, it is a time consuming task but a little patience and cleaning up as you go along can give a very professional finish.

Flags / paving stones can be finished off with edging stones to stop any screed from escaping and they can also compliment your flags or paving.

Safety tip :- Wear gloves when mixing mortar and concrete as cement can irritate and burn skin.

Concrete posts need to be bedded in the ground and set in place using concrete. As a rough guide I would recommend having 25% of the post below ground level to provide good stability and strength. As an example I would use an 8ft post for a 6ft high fence or a 4ft post for a 3ft high fence.

Once you have dug out the hole for the post to the required depth, have some bricks or wooden stakes readily available for when you site the post in position. The 6ft and 8ft posts are very heavy and having some assistance, just from the safety point of view wouldn’t be a bad idea. Site the post in position and stand it level, you can use a spirit level on the sides of the post to get your vertical levels set, having a post level ( fig 1 ) makes the task easier to carry out.

Fig 1

 When you are satisfied with the siting of the post have your assistant wedge the bottom of the post in the hole using the bricks or wooden stakes ( fig 2 ). Double check your levels and then back-fill the hole with concrete, I normally make a mix of 1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 2 parts stone ( aggregate ).

Fig 2 Concrete post

Your new kitchen units have been delivered and the kitchen area is ready for the install, but where do you start ?. The first job to do is check the level of the floor, wherever the highest point is measure up 870mm and mark the wall, this measurement allows 720mm for the base unit and 150mm for the plinth. From your mark draw a level line using your spirit level across the wall(s), this is the guideline for all your base units, now measure up from the 870mm mark to the bottom of your wall units (this measurement is down to personal preference) , I would suggest 400 – 440mm, from this mark draw a level line across the wall(s), and finally measure up from the mark to the top of the wall units i.e. 720mm, and once more draw a level line across the wall(s). Now double check your lines are all level.

Create a space where the units can be assembled, some of the unit flat-packs can be very heavy, so get assistance when lifting them, use the cardboard packaging to cover the floor to stop the units from getting scratched, and keep all the hinges and coloured blanks in a box for later. Assembling the first unit using the instructions can take a while, but once you have an assembly method the rest will go together quite quickly. If you are using a battery drill / driver without torque control take care not to over tighten screws, it is sometimes safer to use a screwdriver for the last one or two turns.

If your kitchen is in a ‘L’ or ‘U’ shape start fitting the units from the corner working out in both directions. Before fixing the wall units I prefer to place the first base unit levelled up and in position, then I mark the wall with a vertical line from its edge so I have guideline for the wall units so they will line up with the base units. Wall units usually come with two fixing brackets each, when you have assembled the wall unit, measure where the fixing brackets need to be in order for it to ‘hook on’, transfer the measurements to your wall and fix the brackets securely, I normally drill the fixing(s) at a slightly downward angle as this reduces the chance of the fixing ‘pulling out’. Use good quality fixings and in the case of plasterboard, use cavity fixings where the brackets don’t land on a wall stud. For peace of mind on a plasterboard wall I always fit additional angle brackets between the wall studs and the top of the wall unit so I know I have a good fixing, they may be a little unsightly but they are usually out of sight and can be painted or papered over, at least you know the wall unit won’t become a base unit overnight !. Mount each wall unit checking them with a spirit level and making sure the edges are flush as you go along, they are adjustable via two screws inside either top corner of the wall unit, one screw raises or lowers the unit, the other pulls the unit tight against the fixing bracket and locks it in position. At this stage don’t worry about any small gaps between the wall unit end and the wall itself.

As I explained earlier in this post, start installing the base units from the corner ( if you have one ), make sure each unit is level before moving onto the next one, use your 870mm level line as the guide, The sink base unit will of course require holes drilling to allow the water / waste pipes through to the bottom of the sink unit, Don’t fix the units to the wall until they are all in position and you are sure they are all level. Most flat-pack kitchen units come with two male / female bolts that can be fitted between each unit, these usually require a hole drilling of approximately 5mm dia through the sides of the units, but when fitted hold the units together and keep the edges flush ( drill new holes for the bolts, don’t be tempted to use existing ones as they may be for drawer runners, etc ).

Male and female bolts

(Back to main page :- Fitting a kitchen)